Birthday in Paradise -Railay Beach, Thailand

After a short flight, bus ride, speed shopping for groceries, and boat ride, we made it to Railay Beach in Southern Thailand to celebrate the culmination of our time in Southeast Asia (and conveniently my 22nd birthday!). The beach was picturesque. Tall cliffs jutted out of the water on both ends of the gorgeous sand, framing the deep blue-green water that extended to the horizon.   

We spent the afternoon lounging on the sand, swimming, and drinking ingeniously crafted sangria made from the random assortment of groceries we had thrown into our cart. The Railay peninsula lies near the city of Krabi, but is accessible only by boat due to the limestone cliffs that make traversing the land nearly impossible. It is a haven for rock climbing, kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving, and hiking and has a myriad of beaches, caves, and lagoons to explore so planning out the next few days was going to be a challenge. A beautiful sunset marked the end of our first day in this paradise, with only excitement to look forward to in the next few days. 

  
Wednesday, March 30 (my birthday!) began with a morning run that turned almost immediately into a climb up one of the karst formations. Claire, one of my friends, and I discovered a network of trails that snaked through the jungle, around boulders, and down to various beaches. Shortly into our “run” we stumbled upon a cave which we explored using only the light from our phones, then headed back to our gorgeous bungalow to prepare for rock climbing. Not only was the climbing incredible, but once at the top I was afforded with a view that overlooked 2 different beaches and a good majority of the peninsula. Not too shabby a way to start out my 22nd year of life. 

   
   
The afternoon held even more excitement. We boarded a boat with Krabi Sunset Cruises and set off into the archipelago of small islands that dotted the water. This boat was nice. Free drinks, delicious snacks, and lounge chairs filled the deck, and a climb up to the roof gave incredible views and a perfect place to soak up the sun. 

  
We snorkeled off a few of the large rock outcroppings, seeing a myriad of fish, sea urchins, crabs, and corals. I even conquered a fear by learning how to backflip off of the boat! 

   
 

Dinner was delicious and even featured a birthday cake for me! I ate waaaay too much (what else is new?) and could barely drink the free beer I had won for doing a backflip and free mojito for my birthday. 

  
However, the highlight of the night was taking a small longtail boat to a bioluminescent bay. We had to wait until it was fully nighttime, then turn off all the lights of the boats. From the boat, the dark water looked ordinary, if not somewhat foreboding. After conquering fears of the unknown sea and thinking I might drown because I had eaten so much, I plunged into the water. Everything was pitch black. Nothing could be seen in any direction, as if the depth of the ocean extended forever and we were trapped in this infinite abyss. It was quite eerie. As I started swimming, this all changed. A slight movement of my hand erupted what looked like an explosion of glitter. Thousands upon thousands of tiny plankton surrounded me, and disturbed by my presence put on their nightly show. Right before I had left for Asia there was an exhibit at the nature and science museum near my house on bioluminescence, which I found fascinating. I knew the science behind it, had seen pictures, and thought I was prepared for this moment. However, though I knew what chemical reactions were taking place and the evolutionary benefits these plankton had, the experience was nothing short of magical. To see darkness lit up by these microscopic creatures, prompted by the movement of my hand, kicking of my feet, or the occasional fish swimming by was the perfect and surreal end to a perfect day. I hope the next year can be as full of new experiences, learning, and conquering fears as just this one day was. 

The next day didn’t let up on adventure. I went out for a run with the intent of making it to a viewpoint that overlooked the peninsula. Shortly into my run I came across a few ropes that led up a steep incline laden with tangled roots, boulders, and monkeys. I climbed up, unsure of what I was getting myself into, but ended up making it to the viewpoint in good time, soaked in sweat and covered in dirt.

  
From there I followed signs to a lagoon, but what started as a manageable descent down a hill quickly turned into a treacherous rappel down a few small cliffs. I could see the turquoise water encircled by cliffs below, and got quite close, but decided to turn around since there were no other people in sight if anything were to happen. 

  
From there the adventures continued. I wandered along paths that led to empty beaches, climbed rocks that monitor lizards were sunbathing on and overlooked gorgeous views, and went into caves that emerged above the ocean. Not many people were up, so the beaches and overlooks were my own. So much to do and explore before 8:00 am! As I made my way back for breakfast, I ran into my rock climbing guide, the captain of the boat, and 7 of the people I was traveling with. Covered head to toe in mud and disheveled, I got questioned for a bit by each of them, but made it back in time to eat and prepare for the next adventure. 

   
 From there was scuba diving. Four of us joined our 2 guides on a longtail boat laden with scuba gear. We went to two different five sites filled with gorgeous corals, fish, crabs, sea cucumbers, a moray eel, and even two bamboo sharks! The second dive site took us through a cave that went underneath one of the karst formations. It was…wait for it…incredible. I wish I had more words to describe it. 

   
    
   
More time was spent on the beach until a final group dinner. I stuffed myself on my last Thai meal of pad Thai, curry, fried vegetables, and more. As darkness hit, we went for one last swim in the ocean. We were surprised with bioluminescence once again, right off the beach! The silhouettes of limestone cliffs framed the inseparable sky and sea while stars sparkled above and below whenever we moved through the water. What a spectacular way to end 2 months in Southeast Asia. 

SIKE! Just an hour or so after the peaceful night, a bout of food poisoning struck, ending my 2 month streak of good health. My stomach of steel finally failed me, at least at the end of our trip so I wouldn’t miss anything. Thank goodness for that since I don’t think I’ll be hungry for Thai food for a while…

Goodbye Asia! Until next time! 

Bangkok Tuk-Tuk Escapades

How many people can you fit comfortably in a Thai tuk-tuk? I think most people would answer 2. How many people can you fit in a Thai tuk-tuk for praticality? We somehow found a way to fit 6. 

  
After arriving back in Bangkok after nearly two months of traveling, we spent an extra day exploring the sights, shops, and foods of Bangkok. After 5 of us hopped into a tuk-tuk with the notion of going to Bangkok’s Chinatown, our driver informed us it wasn’t open and proceeded to drive us around the city, dropping us off twice in weird alleys next to longtail boat piers which were out of our price range for our day of wandering. It took over an hour, but we ended up back at our hotel, each 20 baht poorer. We made the infallible decision to get yet another Thai massage (I think this makes 8 massages for me this trip). Nothing could go wrong with a Thai massage. Keeping up the pampering streak, we ate Thai food infused with smoked salmon for lunch, complete with a delicious and refreshing Thai tea. After lunch was the quest for a palm reader – something none of us had done before, but were willing to try to go into our stretch zone. We walked along Khao San Road, asking people where we might find such a fortune teller. No one was able to give us any information until a man at a small tourist shop told us that none of the gypsies would be out today since it was a Monday. Apparently it is a known fact that the police patrol the area more on Mondays, so those who sold on the streets weren’t out since street censoring is illegal. Strike two for our planned day’s activities. Since there was no fortune to be heard, we bought more elephant pants (because who doesn’t need more flowy pants?) and more fruit smoothies. 

Later on, we decided to give Chinatown another go. The tuk-tuk drivers tried to charge us a ton of money since we were on the main tourist road, but we managed to bargain them down with a catch – all 6 of us had to ride in one tuk-tuk. I thought 5 was impressive before, but adding in yet another person contributed to the challenge. Now a tuk-tuk consists of a motorbike attached to a carriage (it looks like a cage) with one small bench that faces forward. Somehow we managed to squeeze all our limbs in, sitting on each other’s feet, sweaty arms draping another’s shoulders, and knees crunched in so hard that our extremities lost feeling. Our tuk-tuk driver, a young man, found our frugalness and space predicament quite funny, and spent the entire ride driving like a crazy maniac while we held on in the back for dear life and tried not to fall out of the open side. I sat facing the back so couldn’t see the traffic he was weaving through, couldn’t predict the sudden stops that jolted us into an even more twisted pile of limbs, and couldn’t feel anything but the acceleration of the carriage as we flew off into the unknown. Miraculously, after a few nervous outbursts and quite a lot of uncontrollable laughter, we finally made it to Chinatown. 

  
It was as if we had been transported to yet another country. It was so different from the rest of Bangkok with the myriad of neon signs, side alleyways packed with street vendors, and mobs of people that took up all the space on the sidewalk. It was wonderful. We walked along the main road, dipping into small alleyways where we found incredible shops filled with snacks from the ground to the ceiling. 

  
We ate some of the most delicious street food we had had in Asia so far, skipped out on the more questionable street food, and found what appeared to be a version of snow cones! 

  
For just 15 baht (less than 50 cents) you could put up to 3 toppings in a bowl which would then be filled with ice and coconut cream. I filled mine with sticky rice, tapioca, and some type of potato. It was different than anything I tried, but delicious nonetheless. Bangkok definitely has much more to it than I oringially thought, and through a few mishaps and trial and error, a few more secrets of the city were uncovered. 

Temples, temples, and more temples – Angkor Wat!

Cambodia’s early history consisted of isolated fiefdoms that cultivated rice and traded with Indian and Chinese traders. In 900 AD, Jayavarman II united the country and created the Khmer Empire. The capital was located near present-day Siem Reap, and at the height of the empire, the massive city structures housed over 1 million people. I think this was the largest city in the world at this time, but don’t quote me on that. During this time, many temples and other structures were built using Khmer architecture and the ruins can be see today as the world famous Angkor Wat, which is just one of the many structures in the archeological park. 

  
We went to Angkor Wat at sunset. Walking through the dark hallways of the ruins was surreal. These walls had been constructed over 1000 years ago. At some points, it was possible to find secluded spaces away from the hoards of tourists, and a sense of amazement would overcome me as I stood in the pathways where people worshipped so many years ago. It was a spiritual experience. 

The next morning was a 4:45 am wake up call in order to see sunrise over Angkor Wat. I searched for a place to sit among the thousands of other tourists with my friend Amanda, and we munched on a breakfast of eggs, bread, and fruit in anticipation of the spectacle that was about to occur. 

  
Time passed, the sky became lighter. Any minute now a spectacular ball of fire would rise above the temple in front of us and light up the sky in radiant shades of pink and orange. More time passed, the sky went from dark grey to light gray.  

  
Amanda and I looked at each other. Had we missed the sunrise? Had the sun really failed to rise that morning we woke up so early? It was a slight disappointment, but more laughable than anything else. We explored the temple once again, then made our way to Ta Phrom, another ruin. Ta Phrom is characterized by the giant strangler fig trees that had overtaken the crumbling temple. It was incredible. We spent hours exploring, most of the time alone since it was such a large area to cover. However, there were times in the more well-traveled areas where we got swept up in large tour groups. There is no stress quite like when you find yourself surrounded by a mob 20-30 strong, all wielding cameras, selfie sticks, and large fans and moving in the opposite direction as you. I’m sure my terrified face is going to appear in more than one photo taken in those few frantic seconds. 

   
   
Bayon was our next stop. It’s unique architecture and sculptures have puzzled archeologists as to what their meaning is. There were many towers (I think I read 39 somewhere), each with 4 faces carved into it in each cardinal direction. This temple was a maze of cool, dark corridors devoid of tourists and consisted of many different levels.

  
We visited many other temples, whose names I have forgotten, walking up steep stairs and being treated with beautiful views of the surrounding area. Definitely a highlight of my trip so far. 

   

     
As sustenance for temple exploration, we needed to fuel up. The natural choice of course was Bugs Cafe, a restaurant that only served meals containing bugs. This was a major stretch zone, but after eating ants about a week ago in my sandwich, how bad could it be? Bad…there were tarantulas, scorpions, bee larvae, and when I ate an ant bread, I saw live ants crawling around on my plate afterwards. Whoops. Disclaimer: I didn’t actually eat the scorpion in the picture below, I went the much safer route and got a Bug Mac. It looked like a burger but really consisted of 2 types of ants, bee larvae, crickets, and silk worms. It wasn’t too bad! Maybe bugs are the food of the future! 

   
 
Now for a tangent: we went to an ecological park near Bantay Srei (another ruin) and hiked up to a waterfall, which was actually dry this time of year. However, the lack of water revealed carvings in the riverbed rock. A nearby worker told us that those carvings were over 1,000 years old and their purpose was to bless the water that flowed to Siem Reap.

   
 They were beautiful, but I have no idea how they weren’t eroded. There were large boulders along the sides of the stream, evidence of powerful flows of water that the rainy season is capable of producing. The rock had been eroded at some parts, forming large holes in the riverbed that were large enough to fit inside. How the carvings have made it this long under these conditions blows my mind and makes me appreciate the intelligence and craftsmanship of these ancient people. Okay, end of rant. 

Our last night in Siem Reap, we went to the Phare Circus. Now forget everything you know about circuses – this was put on by an organization that helps street children in Cambodia find an outlet through all sorts of arts. The tent was packed with people from all over the world. The show told the story of a girl who had survived the Khmer Rouge, but was plagued by nightmares afterwards. She used these nightmares to create a positive change in her community by teaching street urchins to use their talents for good instead of fighting, stealing, or begging. Imagine this plot line embellished with beautiful live music, dancing, crazy acrobatics, and live paintings and you’ve got Phare Circus. It was beautiful, and I admire how the Cambodians embrace their tragic history and use it to create positive change in their country. This was evident in so many aspects of their daily life that I saw, and I think it serves as one of the reasons Cambodia is probably my favorite country on this trip. We’re headed back to Thailand now, and though I’m excited to continue this adventure, I’m going to miss Cambodia. 

The Killing Fields

As mentioned in a previous blog post, Cambodia has a rich, recent, and horrific history. On the road from Kampot to Phnom Penh, we stopped at one of the country’s many killing fields. They are places where the Khmer Rouge carried out their many executions, depositing bodies of men, women, and children in hastily dug mass grave sites. When the Khmer Rouge was overtaken, they left the mass of bodies, sometimes not even covered with dirt. The killing field we visited is now one of the largest memorials in the country and pays respect to the millions that died throughout Cambodia. 

  
The audio tour took us around the site, speaking of atrocities committed at certain landmarks and playing survivors’ stories. It was impossible to walk through the area without a sense of shock followed by a somber demeanor. The tour finished up at a memorial that holds the skulls of thousands of people killed during the time from 1975-1979. 

  
You could tell how each person died and which tools were used. It is difficult to wrap your head around the horror these people faced, and how the rest of the world had no idea what was happening. 

The afternoon was spent at yet another heavy remembrance of the Khmer Rouge rule. We visited a museum that used to be one of the most deadly prisons during their rule – thousands of people that passed through were executed. Only 8 survived. It had been a local school up until the fall of Phnom Penh, when it was transitioned into a place to hold political prisoners and other potential threats to the reign of Khmer Rouge. Here, prisoners were starved, tortured, and interrogated. When all information was extracted from them, they were sent to the killing fields to be executed. The Rouge soldiers meticulously recorded and took pictures of all the happenings. We had the opportunity to talk to one of the few survivors of the prison, and he spoke of his time there. The only reason he survived is because he had been a mechanic, and the officers needed him to fix their typewriter. Had he failed to fix it, he would have been killed. When Phnom Penh was recaptured, the officers of the prison quickly killed all the prisoners who were found over a week later, unidentifiable due to decay. 4 children managed to escape the final killing spree, and we met one of them who was playing ping pong at the prison. 

   
 One notable thing our guide talked about was the lack of interest in the museum by Cambodians themselves. He said for a while, the Khmer Rouge rule wasn’t taught in school. Both of his parents had gone through that time, yet while growing up he had thought of it more as a “fairytale”. He said the museum was used more by young Cambodian couples as a makeout spot rather than a place to learn about the tragic history of their country. He ended on a positive note, as schools are starting to teach it and more students are becoming interested in visiting the museum for its valuable insight into one of the country’s darkest times. 

The next day we visited The Royal Palace, where the king of Cambodia lives. It was beautifully decorated, with ornate carvings on each of the buildings. 

  
We finished up our time in Phnom Penh with a visit to Kingdom Breweries, built in 2010. We took a brewery tour and ended with a tasting of delicious (and cold) beer on that hot afternoon. Tomorrow, Siem Reap!  

   
  

Voluntourism Disillusion – Kampot, Cambodia

Cambodian sunrises and sunsets have not yet disappointed me, but as we arrived at our guesthouse in Kampot, we were treated with a beautiful array of colors hanging over the mountains across the river. 

  

Our time in Kampot was characterized by lazy afternoons reading in a hammock, morning kayak trips through the river’s canals, biking around the small city to the many organizations that help marginalized people in the community, and volunteering in the rural outskirts. Kampot is a small town, relatively new to the tourist scene. The city center consists of 2 main roads where shops, restaurants, and even a movie theater cater to travelers passing through the area. 

The first two days we spent driving on dirt roads (and walking when our van was unable to navigate the large potholes) to a rural village about an hour away from Kampot. We were participating in a house building through the Sugar Palm Project, an organization dedicated to building homes for families so their children could go to school. I was wary of this project. I love volunteering, but sometimes through “voluntourism” it is possible to hurt a community more than help. Would taking a bunch of unskilled, young westerners to build a house in rural Cambodia really make a difference? The first day we spent cutting bamboo to use as flooring for the stilted house, using machetes to smooth out the edges.

  
I left that afternoon, disenchanted with the project. Our clumsy hands worked slowly, trying to get the hang of the work. Blisters formed on all of my fingers, despite attempts to tape the hot spots. We were met with unreadable stares from the family and their neighbors, and in my head I was imagining them thinking that we were inadequate for the job. We finished with the bamboo by lunch, and surprise! Ants had infested the sandwiches we had brought with us. I tried to brushing them off, but after seeing they had burrowed themselves inside the bread, I closed my eyes and took a large bite. A little extra protein never hurt anyone. I left that afternoon, questioning my purpose on this project and trying to size what impact, if any, I had made that day. 

Day 2 began much the same way: an early morning bus ride, followed by a dusty walk through burnt fields to the build site. We got right to work, transporting the bamboo to the house structure, and laying it out to resemble a ramshackle floor on the wooden supports. Our task today was to tie the floor together. This was much more difficult than I expected – you take string and use knots to connect the bamboo pieces together. After probably 30 minutes of frustration and nearly giving up, I got the hang of it. We had 7 of us in a row, and the knots had to be tightened at the same time or you risked getting a finger caught or being unable to thread the string through. We were as slow as our weakest link (mostly me), but the patience of the experts teaching us was evident. Despite the language barrier, positivity was exchanged throughout everyone at the work site, and as we made it further and further on the floor (you literally move like 3 inches a minute, sometimes less), a flock of children gathered behind us, curious and less shy than the day before. They helped in whatever way they could and thought it was so funny to sneak up behind us and tickle our sides. My uncertain attitude and frustration quickly dissolved as our communication strengthened and we started having fun. Once the floor was finished, we had time before we were able to put up walls. We taught the kids games like Rock Paper Scissors, down by the banks, and more. They found it fun to take pictures with my phone and we spent time making crazy faces into the camera and laughing at each other’s goofiness. 

   
   
After putting up the walls, our day came to an end and we got to meet the entire family. Their kind smiles sent us off back to our busses in a much better mood than the day before (though our fried rice lunch still got infested by ants even though we took precautions). Maybe we aren’t expert house builders or bamboo cutters, but our 2 days didn’t feel like a waste to me. I think it’s more about making connections and helping out in any way we can that is the most important part. I like to think we made an impact in some small way. 

To rid ourselves of sweat and dust, we swam in the river, making it all the way across and swinging off a rope swing with the mountains as our backdrop. 

  
The following days were spent within Kampot city limits. We had a girls day at a spa that provides a safe haven and job for women that have suffered from domestic violence. We took a class at a place called Epic Arts that teaches arts to people with disabilities and provides them with a place in the community through the motto “every life counts.” 

  
We spent a few hours practicing English with kids at a school who’s purpose was to provide low income children the opportunity to learn English. 

  
Overall, Kampot did not let me down. It is a community focused on inclusion and drive to move forward. The natural beauty provided a nice respite from the bustling cities. It may be my favorite place on the trip so far! 

   
  

Living with the Meas Family – Angtasom, Cambodia

We arrived at the Vietnam-Cambodia border, expecting an elaborate customs plaza with uniformed officials who would stamp our passports and allow us to merrily walk through to Cambodia. What we found instead after our bus dropped us off was a desert-like environment with sand everywhere, a few small shacks, and a blocked-off road allowing insanely packed motor bikes and trucks full of garlic through. There were no other tourists in sight and as we walked on the dusty streets with our huge backpacks and big sunglasses, we stuck out like a sore thumb. 

   
 The buildings weren’t very big, so as we went from checkpoint to checkpoint, the afternoon sun beat down on us, causing profuse sweating. My backpacks that I had on both the front and back of me felt as if they were giving me a warm, damp hug, and in the couple hundred meters we had to walk to the Cambodian side, I felt as if I was seeing mirages of oases and large air conditioned busses on the other side. As we made it to the end, celebration was about to break out, but much to our dismay the final guard made us turn around and go back – we had missed a checkpoint. So we marched back in the scorching sun, filled out the additional paperwork, and marched back, never without the company of sweat drenching our brows. We finally made it through (yay!) and into weakly air conditioned vans (my hallucinations lied to me) towards our homestay in Angtadom, Cambodia with the Meas family. 

Much of Cambodian history is very recent and much of the time corrupt and horrendous. It was a French colony from the late 1800s until 1955, when Prince Sihanouk campaigned for independence in the wake of World War II. Uprisings of a small communist group, named the Khmer Rouge, began, but fled to the countryside to form a guerilla resistance after Sihanouk did not allow any opposition. When the Vietnam war began, the neighboring Cambodia found it difficult to steer away from the conflict, and with permission from Sihanouk, the US bombed Vietcong bases inside Cambodia, creating resentment of the government in the rural villages. In 1970, general Lon Nol, backed by the CIA, took control of Cambodia, and proved to be very corrupt. The Khmer Rouge found support in the embittered rural communities and spent 5 years in a civil war against Lon Nol’s government until they took control of Phnom Penh in 1975. Instead of the peace many had hoped for, everyone was marched from the capitals into the countryside to become peasants. Anyone who posed a threat was killed, including ex-government officials, doctors, reporters, teachers, and anyone with an education. Those not executed outright were forced to work in labor camps and on farms with very little food and terrible living conditions. Disease and starvation killed millions (1-3 million). Nearly a quarter of Cambodia’s population lost their lives in the between 1975 and 1979, when the Vietnamese invaded and caused the Khmer Rouge to flee. They remained in the mountains until they were finally defeated in 1998, and though the current government is still corrupt, the country has become more stable and much of the terror relieved. Today Cambodia still struggles with political, environmental, and economic problems, including 4-6 million unexploded land mines. 

Some members of the Meas family, like many others, lived through this difficult time, though it’s difficult to imagine because of their hospitality and friendly demeanor. We spoke with Pon and his nieces about what life was life during the Khmer Rouge and what it was like to grow up in its aftermath. Pon had been in his early teens when they were forced to leave their homes. Two of his brothers were educated – one was killed and the other fled to America, though for over 10 years everyone thought he was dead. They separated the family, and Pon was forced to work at a camp. He talked of extreme hunger and terrible sickness but also of the fact that they were lucky because the majority of the family was still alive. They got their land back, and slowly rebuilt their lives. A bomb crater on their property was turned into a pond. His two nieces were born about 10 years after and they talked about how they could never imagine their family going through something like this and how from an early age education had been an important part of their lives. Hearing the firsthand stories of life during the Khmer Rouge was difficult. I could never imagine living a life characterized by fear, hunger, and death. 

That’s not even everything that makes the Meas family so inspirational. Because they value education so much, they started the Hope for Happiness Centre, which offers local children the opportunity for further schooling after they’re done with their regular day of class. Education in Cambodia was devastated by the genocide, and has had to be completely rebuilt. Lack of facilities, books, and teachers make it very difficult for children to receive proper schooling so the Hope for Happiness Centre hopes to help give opportunities to students who want to put more time and effort in. We had the chance to help out at the school and practice English with the students aged 13-22. Their English was very good, and while talking to them I was incredibly impressed by their drive. Many wanted to become doctors, IT personnel, teachers, and engineers. Their love of learning and reading was evident – the fact that they were there after school to keep on practicing was something very few people do in the United States where there are many opportunities. These children were nothing short of inspiring and I bet there’s no end to the amount of incredible things they’re going to accomplish despite hardship. 

In addition to the school, the Meas family also started a weaving center for women who needed extra income to support their families. One of the only employment options in the area is at a textile mill, where women have to work long hours for 7 days a week with little pay. They have to live near the mill, so seeing their families is infrequent. The weaving center provides training for select women in the community and a job that pays better and gives them time to spend with their children. They sold the hand woven scarves, and I bought one. It was incredible meeting the lady who made it and I hope to continue to support this empowering enterprise. 

   
 In between our time at the schools and learning, we had much time relaxation. Because it was so hot (I haven’t stopped sweating since we got to Cambodia) this mainly consisted of early morning runs, reading books in a hammock, slacklining, helping cook, or learning to make passion fruit jam (delicious!). We met a Swiss professional hockey player named Jonas who accompanied us on many of our excursions and he kicked our butt on the slack line. All in all, it was a wonderful few days and I look forward to the rest of my time here in Cambodia. 

The sunrises and sunsets here are also incredible. The pictures do it no justice. 

   
 

A Different Perspective – Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

As the plane landed in Ho Chi Minh City, buildings could be seen all the way to the horizon. The city sprawled out in all directions, housing the population of 12 million people. Though in establishment for hundreds of years, the city didn’t experience a huge population boom until the Vietnam War when many people got rich from American money by providing services for the war. 

We took a bus directly to the Cu Chi Tunnels, about an hour and a half drive from the city. The tunnels were constructed in the 1940’s by anti-French Viet Minh, so by the time the United States got to Vietnam in 1965, they were an intricate network thousands of kilometers long. They provided the Viet Cong with a distinct advantage over the US soldiers through disguise, traps, and small hiding spots that the larger westerners could not get through. 

   
 It’s hard to believe that people spent their entire lives living in these small crawl spaces underground. They cooked underground, traveled underground, held meetings underground, and more for fear of being killed by American soldiers if caught out in the open. The ingenuity was evident in this true form of guerilla warfare. Many false entrances contained sharpened bamboo that would impale the enemy. 

   
 Others were disguised as wells or camouflaged by leaves. This intricate network was incapable of being solved by the enemy soldiers, as it evolved with the war. I asked our guide if there was any resentment left for Americans in those who spent their lives underground. They were raised to hate Americans and to take pride in killing them, never knowing any other life. He answered a nonchalant, “No.” I don’t know what I was expecting the answer to be, but it wasn’t a casual no as if it had never crossed their mind to be angry. I suppose why should they be mad – they were the victors. They had won their independence, time had passed, and now they were sharing their side of the story with us. I asked this question more than once, and each time they appeared surprised as if resentment for Americans today had never crossed their mind. Had roles been reversed, I wonder if I would feel the same. 

Visiting the War Remnants Museum had much the same effect on me. 3 floors full of artifacts, pictures, and stories were jam packed with people of all nationalities. War and communist propaganda from the Viet Cong was displayed across the first floor, including several pictures of anti-US demonstrations and posters from around the world. The second floor showed war victims and many of the atrocities they faced by the “American enemy.” There was an entire display on agent orange that was used to destroy entire forests and farmland, having a devastating effect on the people who lived there, and also generations to come. Dioxin is one of the most poisonous elements known to man, and the fact that it was sprayed over so much land with so little regard for the innocent lives and environment below blows my mind. Pictures of children born 10-20 years later surrounded me, showing that their lives would never be easy. The effects of agent orange were gruesome, horrific, and incredibly sad. I find it so hard how these people have found it in their hearts to forgive and persevere despite extreme hardship. It was an emotional day, reading accounts of atrocities committed by members of my own country through the eyes of someone else. One story stuck with me – a quote from an American soldier had said that you either just put your head down to get through the war, or you let the war change you into a creature of destruction. It’s hard to imagine myself in that situation. 

Why go to museums that show such horrific sides of history? Why purposely put yourself in a place where your heart is going to be wrenched out and your view of mankind is going to be challenged? You certainly don’t go to have fun or to enjoy a nice relaxing afternoon, it’s heavy stuff. For me, I think it helps to put life in perspective and develop a sense of empathy. Actions I partake in certainly can have overarching effects that I never intended or may never know about. I hope that by having knowledge of things that happened in the past can help prevent them from occurring in the future, as cliche as that sounds. Though the museum was very much one-sided, it was the side I never learned in history textbooks. It makes me wonder how projects I had done in the past on the Vietnam war might be different. 

Though a somber morning, we enjoyed our last night in Ho Chi Minh City and gorged ourselves on delicious Indian food before we head to the Mekong Delta tomorrow. 

Fancy Dresses and Sunburns – Hoi An, Vietnam

Hoi An has a population of 83,000 and has been an important trading port for many centuries. It is a cute town, filled with historic buildings, colorful lanterns, delicious food, and clothing tailors galore, making it easy to fall in love with its atmosphere. It is in close proximity to the beach, and the restaurants and markets along the river were quaint and lively. 

   
   
The beach was only a few miles away, so renting a bicycle for less than $1 for the day to get there was an obvious choice. Though slightly exploited for making money, the sand was nice and fishermen dotted the waves, backdropped by mountains at the other end of the cove.    

 
Hoi An is known for being a place where you can get inexpensive clothing made. Everyone got dresses made (sometimes too many) and had a blast picking out fabric, customizing a design, and getting fitted. I went to two different tailors and ended up with 3 dresses. One sundress, and 2 more formal business dresses. It was an incredibly lavish feeling and the woman running the business was so sweet and attentive, despite the obvious stress of a crowded shop. 

   

 Hoi An is also home to an NGO, the Lifestart Foundation. This foundation was started by Australian Karen Leonard and works to help disadvantaged people in the community. For tourists, Hoi An is a charming town, perfect for a place of relaxation. However, there are so many underlying societal issues in the surrounding community that go unnoticed or ignored by those passing through. Lifestart provides scholarships for children to go to school to become teachers, doctors, and architects when their families are too poor to pay for them to go to school. These children then come back to their community to give back and help it thrive with their new skill set. It also provides vocational training for disabled members of the community. The foundation gives them a place to practice a craft and sell them as unique souvenirs. 100% of the proceeds towards souvenirs goes to the lady making the craft. At the foundation, we made lanterns, taught by a local girl who was supported by the Lifestart Foundation. It was incredibly difficult and I have so much respect for people who can make up to 5 perfect quality ones in an hour. 

   
 Karen thanked us for spending our time and money there, as they are working towards a more sustainable business model, run not off the donations of westerners, but through the hard work of the locals. Many NGOs and start up companies share similar beliefs, and I’m glad to support these places that empower people rather than have my presence as a tourist be a negative impact which can sometimes occur while traveling. I wish there had been more time to spend in Hoi An, but tomorrow we are off to Saigon!

  

Motorbiking Hue

After somewhat of a night’s sleep on the train, we arrived in Hue. Hue was once the capital of southern Vietnam, and has had a long history of political turmoil. We dropped off our bags and hopped on the back of some motor bikes to explore the city. Man oh man was that fun! I’ve never been on a motorcycle before, and it felt freeing. I can understand why people ride cross country on their Harleys. We never went more than 50 km/hr (24.8 mph), but it was exhilarating nonetheless, dodging in and out of traffic and traveling the countryside. In contrast to the gray skies and streets of Hanoi, we lucked out with a sunny day and lush green rice paddies and bamboo all around us. 

  
We saw many landmarks, including a bridge the same age as the United States that is still very much in use. 

  
We traveled to the citadel, built in 1804 by emperor Gia Long, which had clear Chinese influence. In the Vietnam War, during the Tet Offensive, heavy fighting took place in Hue. The Viet Cong occupied Hue for 25 days, and during the battles to regain control of it, much of the citadel was destroyed and bullet damage could still be seen on the walls today. 

   
 We saw pagodas, stupas, rivers, and the emperor’s tomb. So much history was jam packed into that one afternoon, and our guides were intent on showing us all of it. 

   
    
 It was wonderful and a much needed day of respite from the crowds of cities. Though our time in Hue was short, it was pleasant, and the next day we headed off to Hoi An. 

Hanoi, Vietnam

From the peaceful waters of Halong Bay, I suddenly found myself dropped off in the center of Hanoi, a densely populated city of over 7 million. At first glance, I didn’t like it. There is no way to succinctly describe this city. The labyrinth of narrow streets were filled with traffic, lots of honking, and trash. There was only a small sidewalk that was oftentimes blocked by shops and food stands. Crossing the street was a challenge in itself – busses, taxis, and a neverending stream of motorbikes raced by, taking sharp turns and rarely slowing down at lightless intersections, so the fear of getting hit by one was quite real. There was a constant smell of gasoline and cooking spices that permeated the area, and even at night, on floor 7 of my hotel, I couldn’t escape the sound of horns from the traffic below. A 10 minute walk away, large fancy banks and hotels lined the wider streets and sidewalks were sufficiently large enough to walk on. Expensive designer stores like Prada (I forgot all the others since my knowledge of high fashion is quite limited) were present in every street corner. We came across a late-night Zumba/aerobics class in a park next to a roller skating area. The contrasts between the different sections of the city caused many double takes and I couldn’t wrap my head around the culture of Hanoi. However, it is precisely this chaos that gives the city character and so many incredible gems of peace and beauty can be found with a little exploration. 

   
 
Just a few minute walk through the old quarter was beautiful Lake Hoan Kiem, or lake of the restored sword. When feeling suffocated by the city, a morning run around it was rejuvenating. 

  
Entering a sketchy looking tunnel could lead to a small coffee shop overlooking the lake with delicious tea and egg coffee. 

  
A walk to the other side of the lake treated us with St Joseph’s Cathedral, built in 1886, that looked so out of place in the city. With a little bit of confidence navigating the maze of streets, it became evident to me that you can’t depend on first impressions and exploring the unknown can lead to great adventures and even greater food. 

Also in Hanoi was Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum. The line to get into the mausoleum wrapped around multiple blocks, and we waited for about an hour just to catch a glimpse of the preserved body for 30 seconds. Guards ensured we kept our hands down at our sides and didn’t take out our phones or cameras while inside. 

  
Hoa Lo Prison, built in 1896 by the French to hold Vietnamese political prisoners was also an interesting destination. 

  
It was a place of torture, starvation, disease, and death – evidenced by the large guillotine in one of the rooms – and talked about the heroes that had defied French rule and promoted communist propaganda while in prison. One section of the museum was about the use of the prison as a POW camp for American soldiers during the Vietnam War, nicknamed Hanoi Hilton. It talked about American pilots and how they were the enemy, but were treated with respect and dignity during their time at the prison. This perspective of the war is much different than what I learned in history class, and made me rethink my own perception of the causes and purpose of the war.

Tonight we take a sleeper train to Hue and I’ll have to say goodbye to this city that so perplexed me.